Years ago, when I was helping a girlfriend prepare a special meal for her fiancé and future in-laws, we planned an elegant menu starting with a Caesar salad and lobster bisque, followed by salmon wellington and asparagus spears drizzled in hollandaise.
By the time I arrived, she had already prepped the vegetables. To my amazement, (and amusement), she had trimmed the asparagus into stubby logs, discarding the tender tips–completely oblivious to her culinary faux pas. I, course, had to return to the market to fetch a fresh bunch, and then painstakingly demonstrated to the bride-to-be how to properly trim the tough, woody ends of the stalks, leaving the delicate tips alone. There’s much more to know about this darling of the lily family, a high-brow and healthy spring delight with some quirky traits and a lengthy lineage. Here goes:
A Methusaleh delicacy, asparagus has been cultivated for over 2,000 years, revered by the early Egyptians who offered the spears to the gods as gifts, while the Romans resourcefully stashed bunches in the Alps where they were frozen and beautifully preserved, ready to enjoy during its off-season.
Most enticingly, these phallic-shaped spears have acquired a promiscuous reputation as a high-power aphrodisiac that traces back centuries trickling throughout countries and cultures, especially in the Karma Sutra of India and China advising those eager to maintain their “sexual vigor” by drinking an asparagus paste; in the love poems of the ancient Greeks; and the incorrigible romantic French following a thrice daily asparagus regimen prior to their wedding day believing this will fortify the libido.
The etymology of the vegetable comes from the Greek asparagos, meaning, “to sprout,” and, indeed, the plant can shoot up from the ground at space-shuttle speed, as much as seven inches in a single day.
Grown in a trio of colors, the green hue is the most popular variety while the vibrant violet spears with a load of anthocyanin pigments have mild, sweet, and nutty nuances. Finally, the pale, albino version especially coveted by refined European palates can be found locally at farmer’s markets during mid-spring and early summer months and pickled in jars.
White asparagus is carefully grown underground or covered with soil to prevent exposure to sunlight that triggers the photosynthetic formation of the classic green chlorophyll pigment.
These alabaster stalks with milder, more delicate notes make elegant and eye-popping sides. In of nutrition, the technicolor varieties have a slight edge over their pale sibling, yet they’re all packed with a rich store of inulin, a prebiotic fiber for a healthy gut, folate for optimal cell development, especially during pregnancy, vitamins K to fortify bones, C to boost immunity, and A to amp up ocular health.
There’s more. With an abundance of antioxidants, asparagus puts the skids on inflammation with the potential for lowering the risk of certain diseases like type 2 diabetes, while its supply of potassium and fiber keeps blood pressure levels stable. And don’t be alarmed if your pee smells a little funky after eating these delightful darlings. That’s from the asparagusic acid contained in the spears that breaks down into potent sulfur-containing compounds during digestion and releases a quirky odor during urination. Not everyone is blessed with this talent or even the olfactory ability to detect this perfume. But if you are, it’s just a benign side-effect that’s far outweighed by its benefits.
How to pick a winner: look for firm, straight stalks, compact, tightly closed tips, a uniformity in girth among the beauties in the bunch for even cooking time, and freshly trimmed ends. If the stalks are limp, rubbery, blemished, or dry and wood-like, and the tips mushy and discolored, then take a . Keep in mind, in the world of asparagus, thin and spindly is not always better than thick and chunky.
These multi-tasking spears are just as divine tossed in a blend of olive oil, Meyer lemon juice, and minced garlic then gently roasted, grilled with a Parmesan and lemon zest crust, wrapped in crispy turkey bacon and puff pastry, shredded raw in a spring salad, incorporated in silky chilled soups, antipasto platters, omelets, quiches, and frittatas, topped over eggs benedict all smothered in hollandaise, or pickled to a tangy crisp as a snack or savory cocktail garnish, especially a Bloody Mary (recipe below).
If you’re an asparagus adorer catch the annual San Joaquin Asparagus Festival in Stockton, California every April showcasing decadent creations like deep-fried asparagus, and vibrant green asparagus ice cream.So, use all your stalk options this season while asparagus of all manners is good and plenty.
Pickled Asparagus Spears
1-pound fresh asparagus, trimmed to fit in a Mason jar1 cup of apple cider or white vinegar½ cup of lemon juice1½ cups of spring water1½ tablespoons each of sea salt and white cane sugarChoice of aromatics (2 smashed garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon of rainbow peppercorns, 1½ tablespoons of mustard seeds, 1 teaspoon of ground ginger, 1 teaspoon of red pepper flakes, 1 tablespoon of whole allspice berries, or 2 crumbled bay leaves).In a medium saucepan, bring liquids, salt, sugar, and choice of aromatics to a boil. Simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat. Set aside.Pack washed and trimmed asparagus tightly in a Mason jar. Add liquid and desired pickling aromatics, making sure tips are covered with the brining liquid. Securely screw on lid. Let sit on the counter for around 4 hours. Refrigerate and use as desired for a garnish or snack.
