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Theater review: Old Globe’s endearing ‘House of India’ a spicy family tale

Set in a dying Indian restaurant in Ohio, the world premiere dramedy is about family obligations and change

Supriya Ganesh as Vaidehi, left, and Mahira Kakkar as Ananya in the Old Globe’s world premiere play “House of India. (Jim Cox)
Supriya Ganesh as Vaidehi, left, and Mahira Kakkar as Ananya in the Old Globe’s world premiere play “House of India. (Jim Cox)
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In San Diego playwright Deepak Kumar’s endearing one-act play “House of India,” the audience watches an aging, traditional Indian restaurant transform before their eyes into something new and unexpected.

But that’s not really what the world premiere play that opened Thursday at the Old Globe is about. “House of India” is the story of a struggling Indian American family in Ohio, who are forced to confront old habits, family obligations and personal animosities to achieve much-needed change.

On Thursday, Indian of the audience laughed and nodded knowingly at the many authentic moments in the script, sometimes spoken briefly in Hindi, about recipes, faith and traditions. But the four characters in this story are relatably American, with the same hopes, heartbreaks and secrets as every other family in this country.

Deven Kolluri as Vikram, left, Tommy Bo as Jacob and Supriya Ganesh as Vaidehi in the Old Globe's world premiere play "House of India." (Jim Cox)
Deven Kolluri as Vikram, left, Tommy Bo as Jacob and Supriya Ganesh as Vaidehi in the Old Globe’s world premiere play “House of India.” (Jim Cox)

The script’s exposition unfolds naturally and quickly as family matriarch Ananya, frets over the declining business at her faded Indian restaurant, opened byher late husband many years before in an Akron strip mall. Her stressed-out daughter, Vaidehi, has been secretly keeping the restaurant’s doors open by paying the bills with side gigs.

Their cook Jacob — the Thai son of longtime customers who sees Ananya as his auntie — is pushing for change. He thinks the restaurant should adapt to modern times, fusing Indian and Mexican cuisines in a quick-service concept with dishes like kratha tacos and dhosa-dillas.

Then Ananya’s prodigal son, Vikram, arrives home unexpectedly after leaving the restaurant and his family years before, sparking fury and jealousy from his hard-working sister Vaidehi. Ultimately it will take violence to spark positive change.

Zi Alikhan directs the production, which is staged in the round in the Globe’s Sherly & Harvey White Theatre. In his hands, the humor pops, the razor-sharp family dynamics feel real and the transformation of the space is well choreographed. But the actors sometimes remained too static onstage, leaving audience staring at the backs of heads for long stretches of time.

The play’s cast is excellent, particularly the exquisite, charismatic and very funny Mahira Kakkar as Ananya. Supriya Ganesh seethes credibly as the exhausted Vaidehi; Deven Kolluri has a cool, laid-back energy befitting his underachieving character Vikram; and Tommy Bo has a boyish, playful sensibility as Jacob.

Chika Shimizu designed the scenery, Rodrigo Muñoz designed costumes, Cha See designed lighting and Fan Zhang designed sound.

Kumar’s script deftly mixes drama and humor. And just when you think you know where the story is going, it takes a few more twists and turns. “House of India” could use some minor trims and tweaks, but for a new play, it’s in very good shape.

‘House of India’

When: 7 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays; 8 p.m. Fridays; 2 and 8 p.m. Saturdays; 2 and 7 p.m. Sundays. Through June 8

Where: Sheryl and Harvey White Theatre, The Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, San Diego

Tickets: $41 and up

Phone: 619-234-5623

Online: theoldglobe.org

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