“I will not move my army without onions.” — Ulysses S. Grant
Ubiquitously beloved, the mighty onion and its close botanical family are embraced by practically every cuisine across the lands, from Asian (scallion), Italian (cipollini), French (pink shallot, chive and oignon de Roscoff) and Hungarian (makoi vöröshagyma) to Middle Eastern (Egyptian onion), American (Vidalia), New Zealand/Māori (miniature purplette) and Japanese (naganegi).
The onion even transcends culinary class boundaries, enjoyed equally at the ballpark diced and piled high on a grilled hot dog and at a Michelin-honored restaurant minced with beluga and blinis.
Here’s an onion primer that might bring a tear to your eye (along with some suggestions to prevent that phenomenon during prepping).
The pungent, low-calorie, heart-healthy allium cultivated in central Asia, perhaps Iran or Pakistan over 5,500 years ago, is a nutritional powerhouse with a load of immune-boosting vitamin C, stress-relieving B6 and bone-friendly calcium, while its rich store of quercetin and organosulfur compounds throw free radicals, flammatory (and annoying) allergic responses and high cholesterol levels under the vegetable bin.
Notorious for causing bad breath, onions ironically bolster oral health by warding off decay-causing bacteria. To freshen breath post-onion eating, simply chew a sprig of parsley, a mint leaf or a few coffee beans.
Though all onions have health benefits, they’re not created equal in flavor and pungency, making some varieties more suitable for certain recipes.
While this onion lineup is not complete (as there are nearly 1,000 species), it includes the most popular picks:
- Reds (actually magenta) add a pop of color to salads, sandwiches, salsas and pickled vegetable medleys, along with a nice bite to burgers, kebobs and stir fries when grilled, sautéed, charred or roasted.
- Whites, the traditional onion of Mexican cuisine and the base for creamy white sauces, are pleasantly pungent when raw, developing a tempered sweetness when sautéed.
- Yellows, the workhorse of the cooking onion, turn a glossy golden hue when caramelized, adding sweet, nutty nuances to stews, soups and sauces.
- Spanish onions are a type of yellow grown in low-sulfur soil, imparting a sweet, delicate taste to assorted dishes. Since they lose their flavor quickly, it’s best to cook for short periods.
- Mildly flavored scallions or green onions have elongated white-stem bulbs with flimsy, bright green stalks. They add spicy pleasure when eaten raw with sandwiches or salads or sliced as a garnish for grilled fish, stir fries, soups or pasta dishes.
- Spring onions closely resemble scallions but have a more pronounced white or pinkish bulb and bolder flavor. These are best roasted whole as a side or garnish.
- Leeks, like scallions on steroids, are wonderful braised in roasted meat dishes, stews or soups (even in chilled ones like vichyssoise), imparting a rich, hearty onion flavor without the acerbic bite.
- Shallots — reminiscent of garlic cloves in shape and size — have coppery skin with violet-tinted flesh and an aromatic fragrance that elegantly dials up sauces, vinaigrette dressings and vegetable sides.
- The collection of sweeties — Texas 1015s, Washington state’s Walla Walla, Hawaii’s Maui, Georgia’s Vidalia and Peru’s Mayan — are all large, mild-mannered, sweet and juicy beauties equally delightful raw in relishes and salads, fried as onion rings, breaded and baked into a loaf or incorporated in quirky desserts.
- Cipollinis are smaller than the garden variety of onion with squat, flat ends and pale, papery skin ranging from yellow to violet. With a higher sugar content than their siblings and a diminutive size, they are ideal for roasting whole on a sheet pan with assorted roots, braised in stews, or used in casseroles or classic French onion soup.
- Egyptian or tree onions are grape-size peewees that grow in clusters on a stalk. Packing a flavorful punch with notes reminiscent of shallots, they’re ideal for pickling, roasting or enlivening sauces.
- Pearl or cocktail onions harvested while still immature are miniatures usually sold in bulk or netted bags. Quickly blanche and drain these mild, marble-shaped beauts to easily remove skins. Roast in gratins or creamed casseroles, braise with a whole roasted chicken or brisket, or pickle and garnish.
The high dose of sulfuric compounds in onions causes tearing (though sweet varieties are easier on the lacrimal ducts). Several culinary tricks have been found to temper the irritation and waterworks:
- Freeze the onion an hour before prepping.
- Cut the flat (root end) last since it contains the largest concentration of sulfur.
- Sharpen your knives and knife skills to prevent emanations from reaching your eyes.
- Get a pair of anti-fog, culinary onion goggles to seal out vapors.
Onions can be incorporated into every meal, various snacks, spice blends and even desserts, adding oomph to breakfast dishes (frittatas, home fries, burritos), light lunches (egg salads, lobster rolls) and main dishes (turkey meat loaf, marinara sauces, Irish stews, chilies), and pair well with fried liver or Italian sausages and peppers.
Intrepid chefs have peeled back the layers of their traditional culinary training with onion-centric, trendy treats such as Texas sweet onion pudding, chocolate onion tarts and dessert onion rings dusted with brown sugar, cinnamon and chopped pecans.
Recipe
Scratch-made onion rings
Ingredients:
• 1 large, sweet onion (Maui, Vidalia or your choice), cut in ½-inch slices
• ½ cup buttermilk
• ½ cup unbleached flour
• 1 egg
• ½ teaspoon sea salt
• Dash of fresh cracked black pepper, cayenne and paprika
• ½ teaspoon baking powder
• Frying oil (grapeseed, safflower or your choice)
• Handful fresh parsley, chopped
• Sea salt flakes
Instructions:
• Pour ½-inch oil in large skillet. Heat to medium high.
• In large mixing bowl, whisk together buttermilk, egg, flour, baking powder and seasonings.
• Dip rings into batter and fry until golden, about 1 minute per side.
• Drain on paper towel-lined cookie sheet.
• Sprinkle with parsley and sea salt flakes.
