If you’re craving authentic Mexican fare to kick-start your day and rouse your taste buds, there’s no need to cross the border or go any further than Ocean Beach.
Jose and Danny Nunez, transplants from Jalisco, Mexico, which lays a solid claim on mariachis and tequila, never expected they would realize their American dream of owning and operating a beach town eating establishment that would stand the test of time. But they launched Margarita’s Restaurant in 1997 and have been truckin’ ever since.
The brothers started their culinary journey at OB’s Village Kitchen, where Jose honed his cooking skills under the tutelage of co-worker Sandy Shanley. Feeding their piggy banks for several years with hard-earned savings, the budding restaurateurs were ready to buy a business.
When the Margarita’s site (across from the old Strand Theatre) became available, the Nunezes jumped on it, bringing Shanley on board. She then recruited her daughter, Christine Gilliland (the unofficial general manager), into the mix.
The foursome, who call themselves “the original crew,” have been working at Margarita’s for 26 years, serving diners ranging from college students to senior citizens.
“People have been coming here … since Jose and Danny took it over,” Gilliland said. “A ton of people know us and keep coming back.”
Margarita’s serves up Mexican and American breakfast offerings in a cantina-like setting. The terra cotta-stucco walls are adorned with kitschy paintings emblematic of the old Mexican heritage, featuring figures such as Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata. Rustic antique chandeliers cast soft, dim light; a Spanish-style counter built with a rich, brown cement provides a focal point for customers to congregate; while large communal tables and hanging plants fill the warm, welcoming space.
“When people come in, they feel like they are in our kitchen and part of our family,” Gilliland said.
According to Gilliland, Margarita’s is known for its huevos rancheros, which layers a corn tortilla with over-easy eggs, smothered in ranchero sauce and cheddar cheese and accompanied by house-made Spanish rice, refried beans and an extra serving of tortillas.
Other favorites include the Machaca Plate, an extravaganza of shredded beef brisket (made in-house), peppers, onions, tomatoes and scrambled eggs with rice, beans and a choice of corn or flour tortillas.
Chicken chilaquiles combine shredded chicken with tortilla chips, house-made green or red salsa, cheddar cheese and a side of eggs, and the Chile Verde Plate whips up eggs and cubed pork with green chile sauce and tortillas.
Piscivores can indulge in the Seafood Enchilada Plate or shrimp tacos, while vegetarians can pig out on chile relleno (stuffed pasilla peppers with jack cheese), the veggie burrito or the bean tostada. Gilliland also gives thumbs up to the homemade tamales of shredded beef brisket dressed with red sauce and corn masa, all wrapped with a corn husk.
If you’re not in the mood for south-of-the-border fare, the restaurant offers traditional American breakfast items including pancakes, waffles, French toast, bacon, sausage, eggs and hash browns with a side of toast (wheat, white, rye, sourdough and English muffin).
There also are omelet amalgamations such as ham, bell pepper and onion (the Denver), Spanish celery sauce poured over a cheese omelet (the Spanish) and the carne asada and cheese omelet topped with homemade guacamole.
When visiting Margarita’s, to respect the scratch-made salsas. There’s a trio — the typical red blend of tomatoes, garlic, onion, cilantro and jalapenos; one that amps up the heat with habanera peppers; and the verde (green salsa), which blends tomatillos, lime juice and cilantro. If you prefer a chunky condiment, try the lemony pico de gallo, also made in-house.
You can refresh, invigorate and wash everything down with a michelada that blends Mexican beer with spiced tomato juice and clam broth, rimming the glass with chamoy (pickled fruit condiment) and chile lime seasoning.
There also are mimosa varieties ranging from guava and mango to pineapple and cranberry (and the classic orange juice, of course). Or authentic, creamy horchata. Instead, you can warm the cockles of your heart with a steamy cup of Mexican hot chocolate dusted with zesty cinnamon.
Margarita’s Restaurant
Where: 4955 Newport Ave., Ocean Beach
Hours: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily
Information: (619) 224-7454
Recipe
Beef machaca
Ingredients:
• 1 beef brisket (about 12 pounds); 1 cup of shredded beef per serving
• 1 sweet onion, sliced
• 1 bell pepper, sliced
• 2 Roma tomatoes, sliced
• 1 large garlic clove, crushed
• 1 handful fresh cilantro, chopped
• 3 eggs, scrambled
• 1 tablespoon of grapeseed or high-flash point oil
• Salt, pepper and dried oregano, to taste
Instructions:
• In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, add brisket and cover with water.
• Bring to a boil and simmer for 3-4 hours, or until tender. Shred meat.
• Add oil and one cup of meat to a pan or flat top. Sautee with onions, peppers, garlic and tomatoes. Season with salt, pepper and oregano.
• Scramble with eggs.
• Serve with rice, beans and tortillas.
— Courtesy of Margarita’s Restaurant
